OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD (Prep, evo, care, etc.....)

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crisone
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OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD (Prep, evo, care, etc.....)

Post by crisone »

- Post your questions and concerns.
- Show your "Evolution" of your pair(s)
- Please keep the replies clean folks, flaming replies will be deleted.

I'll try to answer questions that best fits my knowledge.

Here's some info taken from the Denim Forum on ISS for Soaking/Washing & Sizing:

Soaking/washing (from Kiya & Panda-san)
kiya wrote:You ready to get your mind blown?

Soaking your jeans in water for anything over 40 minutes is a waste of time, the shrinking of the cotton fibers takes place because they've become wet then dry for the first time since being woven into a textile. How long you leave the jeans in the water does NOT equate to the amount of shrinking.
Actual test i've done just to make sure what i've learned is correct: Take a pair of unsanforized jeans and soak them in warm water for 25 minutes, take another pair of the same jeans and soak them for 2 hours. Difference in shrinkage? Pretty much unnoticeable. Technically? .1" in the waist, .2" in the length.

The temperature of the water makes a far larger difference.
Kids who talk about "i soaked for three hours" are wasting 2 hours and 40 minutes of waiting time.

Panda-san wrote:How do you soak jeans?
Soaking jeans is really pretty simple. You fill the tub with whatever temperature water you feel will give you the desired results, put the jeans in the water, and that's it. You can add soap if you want. Dr. Bronner's Castile Soap is popular for this purpose.

How long should I soak them for?

The most important thing is the temperature. If you're going for max shrinkage, you'll want to soak for around a half hour in warm to hot water. If you're trying to avoid shrinkage, use colder water and less time.

What do I do once I'm done soaking? Should I squeeze the water out, or just let them drip while hanging?


You can try to squeeze the water out, but the denim will have absorbed enough water that you wont be able to get it all out right away. If you can, hang the jeans by the waist in your shower to let them finish dripping.

If you're concerned that the jeans will be too small for you in the waist once they dry, you can put them on wet. Moving around in the wet denim will help it stretch back out. Just be prepared for whatever you're wearing to have indigo stains afterwards.

If you're concerned that the inseam will be too short after the wash, it is possible to stretch the inseam up to an inch and a half in some cases. To do this, lay the wet jeans flat on the ground, stand on the waist, and simply pull on the hem of the legs to stretch them. This is far from an ideal solution though, and you'd be better served doing a bit of research and buying jeans that are still going to be long enough after washing and/or hemming them.

Will I get different/better results from using a machine washer and dryer?

Machine drying will give you more shrinkage than air drying, so if that's what you need then by all means, machine dry.

The main advantage of machine washing is that you have a controlled temperature. You don't have to constantly monitor it like you would your tub to make sure the water stays at the right temperature.

Be aware that the tossing and turning of the jeans in the washer and dryer may lead to the development of odd creases and fades, especially if the jeans are allowed to sit crumpled up and wet inside the machine.

How much will the jeans shrink?

That depends on the jeans. Most raw denim will shrink between 1-3 inches in the waist and inseam. Some denim may take several washes to shrink down to its final size, so you should be careful if you're planning on hemming the jeans.

Also, some companies use sanforized denim, which will hardly shrink at all. Less than an inch all around, if that.



Sizing (from Kiya & Face)

kiya wrote:This is how you determine what size jeans to buy!
For Nudies:
Take a pair of your jeans that fits tight around your waist, button them all the way up, lay them flat on the ground, measure the waistband, double the number, take that number and subtract two numbers, THAT is the size you should buy in Nudies.

For Japanese Brand Jeans:
Take a pair of your jeans that fits tight around your waist, button them all the way up, lay them flat on the ground, measure the waistband, double the number, take that number and subtract one number from it, THAT is the size you should buy in Japanese brand jeans.

FACE wrote:Hope this helps...again
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by crisone »

To start off, here's my Sugarcane SC40601's:

1-1/2 to 2 yrs in, worn months at a time.
1 cold soak.
1 wash (by hand/brush in tub) in luke-warm water, then soak in same temp for about 20-30 min.

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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by crisone »

Haha...this thread looks like a fail, will delete by weeks end if there's no replies.

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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by ryanskeet »

Not yet! I don't think everyone has noticed this thread. Pretty useful info. I always wonderred about soaking. I posted on the 'gap selvedge denim' thread that I picked up the UO brand denim. I've been wearing them since I got em (for a little over a week)and they are already getting broken in. It doesn't feel as stiff like it was brand new, so I was wondering if that's all part of the evolution of them or its the quality of the denim that's weak. This is also my first experiment w/ raw/selvedge denim so I wanted to start off cheap & move up eventually..
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by DJGuamstyles »

Naw Cris, it's good info. For me, it's just that I can only wear Levi's 501s if I want that quasi-selvage denim cause of the sizes. I only wear Levi's anyways, but I hate how the raw denim just bleeds off onto your shoes. I hate it so much. Cuffing doesn't even seem to do anything for me. Also 501s are straight leg. I like the 550 tapered leg fit, cause I can wear stuff and not have my pants drag. I hear it's pretty hard to taper jeans, and most places don't do that.
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by Panic »

I've looked at those Jap denims at lot, but just couldn't pull the trigger yet. Mainly because I'm not sure how they fit in length.
I'm a tall, skinny dude so it's not always easy to find the right fitting denim.

I've found that LVC in size 32/36 fit me perfectly. I've previously worn my LVC 505 1967 for years, but not much fading. That's actually a good thing, because I like the deep, dark color.
I'm currently working on a LVC 501 1954. Pretty narrow denim with a perfect taper on the ankles. Been wearing this one for half a year non-stop, and it's starting to fade a bit. No wash/soak just yet..I'm afraid to ruin the shape it has right now.
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by crisone »

^ Mostly all the "Designer" Denim that I've encountered (Iron Heart, Sugarcane, Flat Head, etc..) all come in 36 length due to the expense of making them in different length sizes. So you should probably be cool, also depending which pair you encounter.

Ryan....that's cool that you started "cheap", I did the same with Levis STF (to get use to rigid/raw Denim, then moved up to the Gap Selvedge which is cool quality I must say, that came out a few years ago, Gap "Gough", after a little time with those, I went with what I have now, Sugarcane, Iron Heart 634S, and what I'm wearing as of now, Self Edge x Iron Heart = SEXIH07BK (Overdyed Black). The softness feel after wearing a bit doesn't mean that it is cheap Denim, it's just the start of evolution with that pair. I know after a soak with my Canes, they stiffened up again, but after a few wears, it softened up again.

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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by D vi3t Ho »

i didnt even notice this thread ! but its great information now that i take a look at it.

thanks cris !
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by 5150marley »

Great thread Chris...
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by Nuhhhice »

the whiskers on those SC's are dope cris.

unbranded tapered. worn for 8 months. 1 cold soak at 3 or 4 months. putting it through another cold soak as i type.
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the left back pocket fade is fucked up cause my phone moves around. blah whatever. haha.

wanted some grey denim so picked up these unbranded tapereds lol. 1 initial hot soak. got these 1 size up from my 1st pair.
regretting that a bit, but the thigh area is fine. i just want to taper the knee down a bit.
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by daewond3r »

Great thread Cris. Your Sugarcane's look awesome.

I'll take some pics of my (almost) 3 year old Edwins. I'm pretty proud of em. Oh and I'm currently beating up some H&M Sliq denim which I'm pretty impressed with. I'll get pics of those too. I think I'll invest in some APCs next, unless I grow a pair and just go for the black Imperial Dukes I've wanted forever.
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by RichyNguyen »

Heavyweight rollin' thru.

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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by LoveandSurf »

Wow, I just learned a few new things. Sweeet thread :)

btw; MERRY CHRISTMAS to all!
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by chukkaboot »

Currently wearing nudie easy Emil dry navy organic for a little under 2 months. No serious fades yet but i dgaf cus they're comfy jeans. I wear them almost everyday.
And also wearing black samurai S5000BK worn for a good month and a half total I don't wear them that often.
I'll post pics when fades start to show :D
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Re: OFFICIAL DENIM THREAD

Post by wolfstrice09 »

Never been into Denim that much but I can appreciate this thread... What is the best denim for your $ ?
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